During daylight hours, life in Kyiv continues with a semblance of normality. Cafés remain open, and residents stroll the streets, sipping coffee while the city’s historic boulevards bask in a pleasant summer sun. At night, however, the same streets quiet down as people seek shelter in bomb shelters.
The journey to Kyiv is now made by train, as commercial flights have been suspended since the 2022 invasion. A Ukrainian friend, Tymoteusz, met the author at the station and offered breakfast at a fast‑food outlet, a scene that starkly contrasts with the ongoing conflict. While the meal was served, air‑raid alerts sounded twice and distant explosions echoed through the city.
Tymoteusz explained that many private businesses, including cafés, bakeries, and ice‑cream shops, choose to remain open during missile and drone attacks. Corporate chains, such as the fast‑food chain that was closed, follow stricter policies that require shutdowns in such situations. The decision allows staff to seek safety in shelters rather than risk exposure while working.
Kyiv’s cultural vibrancy endures despite years of conflict. Residents dress fashionably, and the city’s architecture and green spaces remain inviting. Yet, as Tymoteusz noted, the day’s peace is interrupted after 1:00 a.m., when nightly attacks begin. The routine of going into shelters underscores the persistent danger.
Outside a bank, a long line of waiting customers mirrored the queuing culture of the Soviet era, yet the bank had closed for safety during air raids. The policy aimed to protect both customers and staff, preventing casualties that could arise from remaining in or near the building during an attack.
In a nearby café, the author met Vladim, a former Cold War soldier who served on the opposite side of the conflict. Vladim shared memories of growing up in the Soviet system, including participation in the Young Pioneers and a later military career driven by patriotism. His perspective illustrates the complex relationship many hold toward their past, even after the collapse of the USSR.
Vladim reflected on the fall of the Berlin Wall and his subsequent disillusionment with communism, noting that he and the author had once been adversaries. Their conversation highlighted how the younger generation in Ukraine is taught the destructive legacy of Soviet rule, shaping a collective memory that resists a return to that era.
The current war echoes historical atrocities, such as the Holodomor famine, which claimed millions of Ukrainian lives in the early 1930s. The famine was a deliberate policy of grain confiscation and export, enforced by the Soviet government. Decades of political repression followed, with hundreds of thousands imprisoned or executed during the Great Terror.
Since the invasion began on 24 February 2022, civilian casualties have reached tens of thousands, with many more injured. Air defense systems supplied by Western partners have intercepted a significant proportion of Russian drones but remain less effective against ballistic missiles. Limited stockpiles of Patriot batteries have forced Ukrainian forces to shift to manual operation to conserve interceptors.
A recent strike on Kyiv in July 2026 resulted in the loss of at least nine lives and 28 injuries within the first 48 hours of the author’s arrival. The attack highlighted the relentless tempo of Russian strikes, which continue to target civilian structures and cause widespread harm across the capital and other Ukrainian cities.
